Kirra Beach

This morning we did Dawn Patrol at the Kirra Beach point. I am kind of like Syd’s wave caddy, I have decided. I watch what the locals do, how they paddle out, where they catch the waves, and then tell Syd where he should go. I am a helper!

I saw my first real live barrel wave today. The waves are different here than at home. These ones hollow out and then curve over the top. Waves at home keep a face the whole time. It was over head today and the waves were packed with people. Even first thing in the morning. 

I thought this surfer was Syd, but he didn’t think so. It’s hard to tell who he is out there because usually I know him by his bare feet. At home everyone else wears boots, but here it is so warm boots are unheard of! Some people don’t even wear wetsuits. 

After the surf session we went to a surf museum. It was a random find, but it is run by some older surfers who you can tell have one goal in life and that is to surf. They talked about how they work at the museum to get enough money to fly to Hawaii and surf, and then go home when they run out of cash. At least that’s what I understood, the Australian accent was intense. They were characters for sure!

Oh and, I drove on the left side of the road today! It is super weird. The hardest part is making a right turn across traffic. Out of habit, I try to hit the turn signal with my left hand, and then the wipers come on. It is like they are laughing at me for being on the wrong side of the road. I feel pretty used to it now though after going slow and really focusing. Even in traffic circles!